Below the limestone cliffs of Akrotiri, an underwater world that most tourists never see.
The Akrotiri peninsula extends north of Chania into the Cretan Sea, ending in a rocky coastline of limestone cliffs and hidden coves. From the road, it looks barren. From the water, it is one of the most biologically rich coastal environments in the eastern Mediterranean.
The caves
Along the northern and eastern edges of Akrotiri, the limestone has been undercut by centuries of wave action into sea caves and underwater passages. Some are large enough to swim through. The most accessible cave is a ten-minute swim from Seitan Limania. Inside, the walls are covered in sponges (orange, yellow, deep purple) and large grouper hold still in the shadows and watch you.
What you will see
Octopus are everywhere on the Akrotiri coast. Look for a pile of shells outside a rock hole. That is the entrance to an octopus den. Sea bream, wrasse, and damselfish are common in open water. In the caves, moray eels extend from crevices at three metres or more.
The seagrass meadows
Between Stavros and Marathi beach, the sandy bottom supports dense meadows of Posidonia oceanica (Neptune grass). These meadows produce one centimetre of growth per year and shelter juvenile fish, filter the water, and produce oxygen. Snorkeling over one in clear water is quieter and more subtle than reef snorkeling.
Practical notes
The best snorkeling is from Seitan Limania (exceptional visibility), Marathi beach (easy access), and the rocky points around Stavros. Bring your own mask and fins. Visibility in good conditions exceeds 30 metres.
Go at 08:00 before the boats arrive. The water is clearest before 10:00. Bring your own mask. Rental equipment quality varies.